The Maiden Voyage – April 11-18, 2014

 
I have always wanted a camper.  We called them campers when I was a kid, covering the whole gamut of travel trailers, motorhomes, and vanagons.  Well I found my baby, and knew it when I saw the inside.  Clean, working, the right size -- 18 feet long, with two doors.  I couldn’t understand two doors until I saw the layout.  At one end is a “bedroom” of sorts, and you can draw the curtain and sleep in as long as you like while the “other party” (kids, friends, in-laws, the odd hobo) has the run of the kitchen, bathroom, and the whole outdoors.  I had spent weeks preparing my camper for the maiden voyage.


Renae arrived Friday in time to help with the last of the packing, filling, loading, and hitching.  Somehow I’d convinced her to go along with my harebrained scheme.  My request was a simple one:  “Make sure I don’t do anything stupid.”  She was happy to comply and confident she could handle the job.  She would end up contributing regularly toward this goal for the rest of the weekend.  We got on the road just after noon, made a few stops, enjoyed the journey, and dawdled just long enough till eventually we realized there would be no time to pitch camp at Snow Canyon before Vince and Amy came on at 7:30.  So we drove straight to Tuacahn with our house on wheels.  When the parking attendant spotted me and my lot, he radioed in for instruction.  I was directed to pull up and park right along the driveway curb.  We weren’t too concerned about Luna staying in the trailer.  It was unlikely that anyone would hear a peep out of her.  I gave her a short walk, and shut her in for the evening.

Amy Grant and I are the same age within a month.  I have been a fan since we were both 25.  I’d followed her music and her life, especially the chapter where she and Vince wrote the end of their love story after six torturous years.  I’d seen them perform together in 2007 at Deer Valley, and again in 2012 at Ryman Auditorium.  Also individually, every chance I got – Peppermill, Kingsbury, Abravanel, Pacific Amphitheatre, Utah State Fairgrounds.  It wasn’t my first rodeo, but I’d never been to Tuacahn and had anticipated this show and its fine acoustics for three months.

Renae and I grabbed a Pepsi and found our seats with 10 minutes to spare.  Vince and Amy and their small band came out right on time, Vince in some funky boxer shorts joking about the kind of man Amy married, and opened with One More Last Chance.  Then Amy took over vocals with Takes a Little Time.  They alternated songs for a while, peppering the show with witty banter and mild complaints about the dry desert clime.  They’d flown into Vegas from Nashville that very day and driven up to Ivins.  Vince said that after three songs he’d be sounding like Joe Cocker.

When they got to the introduction to House of Love, Vince recounted the history of that recording, which they dueted in 1993, back when they were both married to other people.  Amy once again recalled how she was so drawn to Vince that day they’d spent in the recording studio, and how at one point she was moved to throw her arms around him before he could protest (I’ve seen the video capture of that moment and it’s cute).  Vince recalled how the high harmony of the tune was too high for Amy’s vocal range, and the producers thought, now who can perform this with her?  “I sing like a woman.  I’ve sung like a woman all my life.  But I live in a really nice house because of it.”

Amy forgot the lines to one of her own tunes, recovered gracefully, and moved right along.  Paul Franklin on pedal steel was a highlight.  The six-piece band consisted of a bassist, keyboardist, drummer, pedal steel, Vince, and Amy.  It was so informal it was like hanging out with them in their back yard.  During Baby Baby, Amy had to hit a high note, which she did, but then this kind of a squeak came out.  “Ohhhh, love that desert air,” she intoned.

Vince launched into stories about his father, “a judge by trade, but a redneck by birth”.  He told of his father giving him a banjo and teaching him the three chords he knew.  Now you’re on your own, son.  “A few chords on the banjo is the key to life,” Vince observed.

Smile Luna!

Following the show, we made our way back to the trailer.  I opened the door and stepped in to turn on the light…. I stepped into….  I stepped… “ohhhhh Luna”.  My moccasins, no less.  I grabbed paper towels and made a few swipes.  This was going to call for more severe cleaning measures.  The carpet, the floor, my moccasin.  Then I realized that we had parked right next to the amphitheatre’s diverted river water feature, which ran down the center of the long sidewalk, forming a narrow channel of rushing water.  I said to Renae, “Well there’s my washing machine.”  Allowing the rug to be flushed out by draping it into the flowing water and a bit of washboard scrubbing left us all sufficiently clean with minimal effort.

What I love about Renae is her easy manner and her up-for-anything attitude.  That is, she lets me talk her into harebrained schemes.  She’s cheerful, upbeat, intelligent, and we always find something to laugh about.  Such as, “Ma’am, why did you bring your trailer to the concert hall?  And ma’am, don’t you know that dogs aren’t allowed here?  And why are you doing your laundry in our water feature?”

 We got to Snow Canyon campground in the very dark hour of 11 pm, and were greeted by a locked gate.  But my wingman reminded me that I know how to read, and I got the code to open it.  We left most of the fussing until morning.  Daylight inspection revealed that our campsite was BIG, lots of space, and mostly secluded.  Easily the best site in an already superior campground.  We hiked one of two trails that dogs are allowed on.  John Henry and his posse, or “The Gentlemen’s Club” as they prefer to be known, arrived about 4:00, in plenty of time to set up the tent.  They were happy to be on vacation and exhibited their usual eccentric behavior.  Since the behavior continued until 2 am at an elevated volume, they did get yelled at by the neighbor.

Snow Canyon
Next day, after scrambling the petrified dune, Renae gave me a tour of the back side of St. George – Ivins, Santa Clara, Green Valley.  Most fascinating was her description of the golf cart community a little further up the road – no cars permitted, just carts.  I dropped Renae off and got to meet her delightful mother.  I can see where Renae gets her sunny personality.  Mom has a beautiful home and a sweet little dog for good company. 

Now on to Zion without my consultant.  That afternoon, when the guys re-pitched the tent at the Zion campground:

“Why is it so much heavier this time?"
“That’s ‘cause Renae’s not here.  She’s a beast!”
Ohhhh those boys are helpless.  Their intentions are good, but they seem confused by the amount of action that survival requires.  It occurred to me that if anyone had asked them if they would perish in the outdoors, they would answer with a chorus of “PRAHBably.  PRABABLY.  Praaaabably.   PrahbahBLY ” with that Minnesota accent they pull out.  Cameron and John Henry both have fathers that hail from Minnesota, so it comes natural to make fun of them.  Easy targets, those squareheads.  Earlier this year, I witnessed Shalin field his Borat accent in the middle of the State Debate tournament.  Now THAT was a fine moment in high school history.

The Gentlemen's Club

Later that night, they let me play Cards Against Humanity with them.  It’s a game modeled after Apples to Apples, but that’s where the similarities end.  There is nothing righteous about this game.  Here’s how it started.  The first question card was as follows:  

Q:  “When my dad had his midlife crisis, he really got into _________.”
The possible answers were presented: 

1) Pictures of boobies   2) Tasteful sideboob   3)  Something I can’t recall

John Henry who was judge and jury, after seeing our responses, took mock offense with “What are you guys saying about my dad?” before picking “Tasteful sideboob” as the obvious winner.

Okay, now that you get the idea, think about these for a minute:

Q:  “Here is the church, here is the steeple.  Open the door and see ___________.”
           Q:  “My country tis of thee, sweet land of ___________.”

Several rank questions (and ranker responses) into the game, and after I’d actually won a couple of hands, Cameron says, “For some reason, it’s twice as funny when it’s Carol’s card.” 

John Henry:  “You learn a lot about a person.”

My favorite “answer” card of all was “50,000 volts straight to the nipples”.  This card is funny no matter when it is played.  If you are that type of individual.

Next day, I had to move the trailer.  It’s a long story, but I had to move to a new campsite each day.  What a pain.  To boot, they squished all the Zion campers together so they could spray vacant sites for tent caterpillars.  It was even more crowded at Zion than usual.  Without my wingman there to save me from myself, I decided on a side trip to Las Vegas for the day.  I didn’t win, but I stopped in the Virgin River Gorge on the way back that night to observe the total lunar eclipse in process.

Eclipse viewed from Virgin River Gorge
By Tuesday, all the inconveniences – leashed pets, crowds, moving campsites, checkout times, crabby moms, and caterpillar infestations took its toll.  The boys declared victory and their intent to depart a day early.  They went off to hike Angel’s Landing while I contemplated my next move.  I thought to visit Shirley, but it would take me far easterly.  I called Layne to see what he would have to say on the matter, and to return his call from the previous week.  After I brought him up to speed on The Adventures of Luna, he referred me to a camp spot not far up the highway -- Red Cliffs Recreation Area.  We made plans to meet up in Baker, Nevada the next day.  This had been a potential destination of ours for a while, especially the promising Gandy Warm Springs.  When I asked him how long he planned to stay, he replied in typical fashion: “Till the party’s over.”

During my grocery run, I met Ron from Toquerville who had just opened a B&B at his home “across from the old church as you come into town”, and who was in need of some coffeemaking tips which I cheerfully provided.  He got me to promise to stop by if I were ever within shouting distance:

Morning Hike at Red Cliffs
Red Cliffs is a small campground of twelve campsites, and I snagged the last spot.  I met some friendly people from Wisconsin who sorted me out on the cultural differences between “Hurrikin” and LaVerkin.  Good to know.  I also listened to a nice mom from Washington who camped next to me and who apparently never stops talking.  I practiced guitar and sang for a while that evening from my camper, and one neighbor told me the next morning that it was beautiful.  That is the first time I have heard that, and it made me happy.

Luna and I had some time to kill, so we took a morning hike through the red cliffs behind our campsite.  I sat for a while and contemplated the sandstone cathedral that stood before me, the majesty of it and its maker, and the sweetness of this life.  Then we broke camp in time to stop by the ghost towns of Harrisburg and Silver Reef, the latter being the only place in the world where silver has been found in sandstone. 



The Vahst Basin
Along the remote 21 to Baker from Milford over the first crest, a “vahst” basin stretched out before me.  30 minutes and a 6200-foot pass, and another great basin lay before me.  The third time it happened was the “greatest” basin of all, with Wheeler Peak in view high above.  Truly beautiful, to one who loves the high desert.

Layne and I arrived at our planned rendezvous point just ten minutes apart.  It was great to see my old friend, and Luna was obviously happy to have him join our party.  We picked our “primo” campsite there at the barely-better-than-KOA, and pulled in.  As is typical, Layne had me set up before I could unpack my pantywaist.  I put together a green salad with chicken and vegetables, and we headed out for a sunset drive up to Wheeler Peak.


 Alas.  The road to Wheeler is closed until June.  Layne was disappointed, but I talked him into a short hike between campgrounds instead.  He loves to drive, I love to walk.  Luna prefers to walk.  The upper and lower campgrounds are both beautiful, lots of trees, shade, privacy, no hookups, and all turnouts, so no backing trailers in.  This is a suitable point for a return trip, says me. 

Back at camp, there was the hard choice between gavotting over to the little bar (where they’d welcomed Luna right in earlier) or retiring to the cozy confines of the camper.  We opted for a cutthroat cribbage game and a strum-n-singalong. 

Next day after breakfast, we scooted off to find Gandy Warm Springs which had been highlighted in some geologic survey notes and previously discussed as a desirable destination.  30 miles of dirt road later, we found it, though we’d imagined it to be bigger than these small pools.  After determining that this was indeed the place, we donned our suits.  I beat the rest of the troupe into the lower pool and discovered a small cave that could hide me just long enough to get them wondering.  It was amazing to be hidden away, tucked under the mossy ledge, just out of sight.  The cave even went back a ways!

Gandy Warm Spring
On to the upper pool, which was slightly warmer.  It was beautiful, about the size and shape of a large hot tub, and the best part was that we had the whole place to ourselves.  All of it -- the road in, the road out, the destination.  Not another human bean in sight.  Another bonus is that warm springs do not have the sulphur smell as hot springs do.  After a good soak, we warmed ourselves on the rocks.  Luna was at peace with the world, drying her fur in the sun and looking as mellow as an old lab can.  Layne was mellow too, with wood season finally over and a trip to Ukraine under his belt, though he was compelled to try to figure out how much money was in the H2O gushing out of the mountain at the going rate of Colorado River water acre-feet.  We were, after all, in the center of the Snake Valley whose precious water has been coveted by the Southern Nevada Water Authority since 2007 for the pigs in Las Vegas.




Dinner that night was smoked sausage smothered with chili.  We wanted to tour the caves before our leavetaking the next day, so a few songs then off to bed.  In the morning as we readied the camper for departure, the neighbor remarked to Layne that the only cave tour openings that day were at 9 am, 1 pm, and 3 pm.  Checking our watches and time zones, we figured we had 13 minutes to get to the cave.  Remarkably, I had my socks, shoes, purse, and water bottles all on my person.  Luna had been fed and so had we.  We jumped in the truck and raced up to the visitor’s center, unsure we could pull off the race successfully.  But we arrived with 90 seconds to spare, and we were in.

The caves were of course, incredible.  We viewed awesome and grotesque formations such as soda straws, cave bacon, the ear canal, the music room, and Jabba the Hutt (lots of him).  The lighting in the cave was very well done, illuminating tucked away nooks and entire rooms.  We listened to our guide tell about the history of the cave find and the legends surrounding it.  The actual cave time lasted about an hour, after which we were very glad to see daylight again.   

Lehman Caves
After packin ‘em up and movin ‘em out (rawhide), we had an easy trip out 6/50 back through Millard County and made our last stop at Sunstone Knoll for some long-anticipated rockhounding.  There was no sun to help with the search, which made it more challenging, and no rock pick, but I did finally figure out what I was looking for, and brought home some rock samples for study.  I shall add the rock pick to the standard camper inventory, along with other essential field equipment such as the UV flashlight for night scorpion hunting, and my very own set of Cards Against Humanity which I hope to receive as a Mother’s Day present from my son.  Which brings me to the “correct” answers to the earlier questions:
Q:  “Here is the church, here is the steeple.  Open the door and see _black people_.”
Q:  “My country tis of thee, sweet land of __leprosy__.”
I had so much fun on the maiden voyage that I wasn’t ready to come home, even after a week on the road.  There are some definite advantages to hauling your own bathroom around with you.  If I’d simply done one load of laundry, I could have spent another week wandering around.  It made me realize that I will not struggle with finding meaningful purpose once retirement finally arrives.  A furnace, a small fridge, a hot shower, a comfy bed, and endless adventure sounds like the perfect way to see out the rest of my days.


















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